Today we said goodbye to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula and began making our way back toward Reykjavik. Before leaving the peninsula behind, we made one final stop at Ytri-Tunga, a beach famous for its resident seal colony. Unlike the dramatic black lava rock beaches we’ve been seeing, Ytri-Tunga is a golden sand beach with wide views out to the sea. The seals are usually lounging on the rocks or swimming just offshore, especially during low tide, and it’s a peaceful place to quietly watch them sunbathe or slip into the water. Some of them play in the surf! While you can’t (and shouldn’t) get too close, it’s still fun to spot them from a distance and enjoy the watching them swim, dive, and play before hitting the road.

From there, we drove south back toward Borgarnes, which makes a perfect halfway stop between the peninsula and Reykjavik. Borgarnes sits on a beautiful peninsula itself, and while it doesn’t take long to drive through, it’s worth pausing for lunch. The town has a few cozy restaurants and bakeries that are ideal for warming up before continuing the journey. We enjoyed the break, stretched our legs, and stocked up on snacks for the rest of the drive.

The road to Reykjavik from Borgarnes is straightforward and takes just over an hour. After several days of dramatic coastlines, lava fields, and remote beaches, the drive into Iceland’s capital is a shift into a more inhabited city area. Reykjavik is the largest city in Iceland, but it still feels approachable and compact compared to other European and American capitals. We checked into the Exeter Hotel, which is right in the city center and offers a mix of modern design with cozy touches. It’s the perfect base for exploring on foot.

Reykjavik is a city best experienced by walking. The colorful streets are filled with murals, quirky shops, and cafés where you can stop for a warm drink or browse souvenirs. One of our first stops was Omnom, a local chocolate factory with a small tasting room. Their inventive flavors, everything from licorice to sea salt, and unique presentation make this a fun stop for all ages. Bonus points if you are eating ice cream in Reykjavik in the snow!

Later in the afternoon, we walked to the Lava Show and purchased tickets for an experience unlike anything else. This is the only place in the world where you can safely see real molten lava poured and handled indoors. The heat is intense, whether seated in the lower or balcony level. The glowing orange lava flows across a stage while a guide explains the geology behind Iceland’s volcanic landscape and how lava forms, flows, and cools. It’s dramatic, educational, and memorable, especially after spending time on the peninsula where those forces shaped the land we had just explored. Our ticket also came with a cooled piece of lava as souvenir! (Do not, under any circumstance, attempt to collect a lava souvenir from anywhere else in Iceland.) 

We ended the day with dinner at Le Kock, a casual but creative restaurant in Reykjavik and attached to Exeter Hotel. Known for gourmet burgers and craft beers, there is also a fun, cheeky vibe and the food is good. After a day of driving and sightseeing, it was the perfect laid-back spot to relax, recap our trip so far, and plan for tomorrow. Sadly, no Northern Light viewing tonight due to light pollution in the city.