Day 8 in Jordan: walking in Lawrence of Arabia’s footsteps in Wadi Rum

Today’s adventure is all about experiencing the desert! Wadi Rum acquired fame due to the publicity of T.E. Lawrence’s Lawrence of Arabia and would later be a featured filming location for several Hollywood productions including The MartianAladdin (the live-action remake), Star Wars Episode IX – The Rise of Skywalker, and John Wick 4. Neither the writings of Lawrence nor the camera lens of Hollywood accurately and completely capture of beauty of Wadi Rum in the same way that it is experienced. 

The desert is blisteringly hot in summer and bracingly cold in winter; the quintessential temperature swings expected in a desert. Wadi Rum has been inhabited since prehistoric times due, in large part, to having a water source from its many wells and springs. A trek through the desert affords the opportunity to view petroglyphs and inscriptions on the sandstone cliffs, hike up the sand dunes to take in stunning views, descend sand dunes via snowboard, visit the remnants of Lawrence’s House where legend says the Brit stayed during the Arab Revolt, and scale rock formations and bridges for the ultimate adrenaline-pumping photo opportunity! 

My friends and I are staying at Memories Aicha Luxury Camp and, because we are not driving a 4WD vehicle, we parked in the Aicha lot and were driven to the camp site. The driver loaded our bags while we climbed into the back of a pickup truck which has been fitted with bench-like seating. It is a short drive from the parking area to the campsite with plenty of beautiful views along the way. Check-in is easy and a member of staff takes you to your room. We are staying in the Executive Luxury Tent which comfortably accommodates three guests. All tents come with air conditioning and an en suite bathroom and shower. Our tent is set up to have a main bedroom area (complete with king size bed and a sleeper sofa) and a living room (with a roll away bed); a curtain can be drawn to separate the two areas giving a bit more privacy. The interior is beautifully designed to be reminiscent of a luxurious Bedouin tent with all the modern amenities for comfort. We dropped off our bags and changed before our afternoon excursion. 

We chose to do a 4WD excursion this afternoon as it is the easiest way to see the most of Wadi Rum in the shortest amount of time. The four hour tour began with our driver picking us up from the campsite. We climbed into the back of the truck, again fitted with padded bench seating, and began our journey into the desert. Depending on the time of year, take warm layers, a hat, sunglasses, plenty of sunscreen, plenty of water, and a snack at minimum. The ride is bumpy at times and I recommend a sports bra for the ladies. Our driver took us to several sites, provided some history and context, and took some pictures for us. It was a nice mixture of guided tour and exploring on our own. Wadi Rum looks remarkably like something otherworldly … probably why it has been featured in films such as The Martian and Star Wars Episode IX – The Rise of Skywalker. The canyons offer a fun area to hike and you may find inscriptions depicting life in the desert from long ago. Be aware that proper footwear is an absolute must. I recommend a hiking style shoe with plenty of ankle support and good tread (sand on rocks can be slippery). Be sure to check the depth of any water pools with a rock or stick before you step in them as the depth can be deceptive. On the last stop of our tour, our driver built a small campfire and made tea for us. It’s remarkably relaxing to listen to a crackling campfire, sipping hot tea, while watching the sun set in the desert with great friends. 

After returning to Memories Aicha Luxury Camp, we dropped our backpacks off at our room then went to dinner. The camp has a dome shaped dining tent where they serve Jordanian food buffet-style for dinner and breakfast. There is also a hookah lounge where wifi is available though we did not participate. The camp offers a stargazing tour after dinner which departs from the registration office and it is a good idea to bring the Bedouin robe from the tent for additional warmth. Expect a ten minute walk from the registration office to the stargazing area. The guide will have everyone sit down for about 20 minutes of discussion and identifying constellations before taking photos. You can stay longer for stargazing or walk back to the tents. You can see the stars from the camp though it is easier to see them a short distance from the camp where there is no light pollution. A book, boardgame, or good conversation with friends is a fantastic end to another day of amazing adventures in Jordan!

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