I woke up about 8am and slowly started to get ready for the day. We (my friends and I) decided to go for breakfast at Planet Donut which was a short walk from the apartment. I had a plain glazed donut which was good. It was similar to Krispy Crème donuts though slightly heavier in texture and larger in size. Still struggling to eat much for breakfast right now which happens sometimes. 

After breakfast I flipped back through my travel book to refresh myself on a few things to know. Officially the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, this is a country in Western Asia. I don’t know why this still surprises me because the country sits, relatively, between Asia, Africa, and Europe. Jordan is immediately bordered by Saudi Arabia to the south and east, Iraq to the northeast, Syria to the north, and the Palestinian West Bank, Israel, and the Dead Sea to the west. The Transjordan region has seen Assyrian, Babylonian, Roman, Byzantine, Rashidun, Umayyad, Abbasid, Ottoman, British, and French influence and rule. Jordan became an independent country in 1946, ending its status as a British protectorate. 

The country has long accepted refugees from surrounding countries in conflict, though the recent influx has put a strain on national resources. The country is a major draw for tourism and is safe for travelers. Be mindful of the usual things when you travel anywhere. Though not immune to attacks, any violence is met with outrage and genuine shock by residents. King Abdullah II and Queen Rania are often seen visiting western countries, including the United States, and foster a peaceful relationship with Israel and the West. The predominant religion is Islam though the country does not share the strict religion-based laws of some countries and you will see men and women along the full spectrum of religious belief and adherence. 

We left about 11:30am for a cooking class at Beit Sitti which offers authentic Arabic cooking. It was a lovely day, sunny with a steady breeze, and we were set up on the terrace for the class. The covered terrace was surrounded by herbs and orange trees in addition to the cooking equipment which is primarily fueled by propane. Each person participated in the preparation of the meal and then we sat down to eat family style.

The menu included:

• Mint lemonade to start. 
• Mouttabal which is a smoky eggplant dip with garlic and tahini. 
• Arabic bread which was sort of like naan, at least in this preparation. 
• A farmers salad which included tomatoes, cucumbers, mint, parsley, onion, sumac, and pomegranate molasses. 
• A green bean dish, I can’t recall what the ladies called it. 
• Maaloubeh which is a dish of chicken, rice, eggplant, and cauliflower. 

The meal was fantastic and we thoroughly enjoyed the fruits of our labor! I definitely want to make these dishes with I get back home and experiment with the new flavors I was able to try like sumac and pomegranate molasses. We were also served a type of milk pudding dessert which I think had some rose water in it. It wasn’t a bad dessert and it wasn’t a dessert I would order again either. Beit Sitti sells their seasoning and spice mixes at the location and online.

We heard the call to prayer while at Beit Sitti. While unfamiliar to me, and in Arabic, I found it to be oddly calming. I don’t know what the words mean but the tone is soothing in a way that is difficult to explain. It is much different to hear it in person compared to hearing it in movies with the cinematic crackle and pop of the loudspeakers. In person it is much more peaceful and soothing.  

Rainbow Street is a popular area with tons of shops and restaurants. We spent a little bit of time a couple streets over in shops like Urdon Shop, Wild Jordan, and Trinitae. Urdon Shop and Wild Jordan offer a variety of items, everything from postcards to furniture, all made in Jordan and supporting regional outreach programs. Wild Jordan has ostrich eggs which are beautifully hand painted in a variety of prints, patterns, and holiday themes. There are even half eggs which are set in a shadow box type frame. It was an unexpected opportunity to see how thick an ostrich egg is … I’m estimating 1/8″ at least. I was nervous to try to get one home but the shop will pack them in bubble wrap and a box so I think it would be okay to travel with in hand/carry-on luggage. Trinitae Soap offers a variety of specialty soaps and lotions which smell amazing and use Dead Sea ingredients. 

Dinner was at Biera which is a local brewery with good beer and solid bar food options. We decided to walk around the area after dinner and stopped at Al Sufara Bakery. Everything is baked on site and there were several different bread and sweet options. I thoroughly enjoyed the bakery and picked a few items to taste. I walked out with a grocery bag full of items to try for less than 4 JD (less than $5) and everything was delicious! We also stopped in a spice shop and walked by a lamb butcher shop on the way back so, being a meat scientist nerd, I snapped a few photos and did a visual inspection!

Reflecting on my first full day in Jordan I noticed there are a ton of feral cats that wonder freely. Most steer relatively clear of people but some will get closer. I have two “not my favorite” takeaway items. These two things are not safety concerns and they aren’t terrible; by no means are they deal breakers for me. They are things I observed that I didn’t expect or am a little saddened by. First, there is a fair amount of loose trash in the street. Think plastic bags, single use coffee cups, styrofoam, etc. Jordan has been dry and breezy so these things blow about in the street. I see this to a lesser extent in the US and other countries. This saddens me because Jordan is a beautiful country and the trash is an eyesore. Jordan may look, sound, and smell different than my home country, but it is beautiful nonetheless. Secondly, smoking is still prevalent and permitted indoors at restaurants, etc. This one has been a harder adjustment for me due to the strong smell affecting my allergies. I think this will become somewhat less noticeable as the weather continues to improve, people dine outdoors at restaurants, and windows and fans are used for better air flow and ventilation. Again, neither one is offensive enough to be a deal breaker and I would happily come back (even if it is still my first day here!).